Emerging from the bustling Santa Lucia train station in Venice, the first church that greets visitors is the striking yet controversial San Simeone Piccolo (also known as SS Simeone e Giuda). Built in the early 18th century, it holds the distinction of being one of the last churches constructed in Venice. However, it has long been the subject of criticism, often labeled as one of the most unattractive and disproportionate churches in the city.
John Ruskin famously dismissed it as “one of the ugliest churches in Venice, or anywhere else.” Architectural historian Giulio Lorenzetti was equally unimpressed, describing its “disgracefully tall copper dome, utterly out of proportion with the structure beneath.” Even Napoleon is said to have quipped, “I have seen churches without domes, but never before have I seen a dome without a church.”
Yet, despite—or perhaps because of—its unconventional appearance, San Simeone Piccolo has an undeniable allure. Since 2016, the church has been open to the public not only for Sunday Latin Mass but throughout the week. Visitors can enter the main church free of charge, while those seeking a deeper experience can pay a modest €2 fee to explore its crypt—one of the few subterranean burial sites in Venice.
A Rare Venetian Crypt
Unlike Rome or Paris, Venice is not known for its underground catacombs or crypts, making the burial chambers of San Simeone Piccolo a fascinating anomaly. Below the church lies an ancient cemetery composed of four corridors leading from a central octagonal chamber to 21 interconnected funerary rooms. The walls are adorned with frescoes depicting death, the afterlife, and the Day of Judgment, creating a haunting yet mesmerizing atmosphere.
Among these eerie depictions is a mysterious figure holding a globe, with a crescent moon positioned above his head. I believe this to be a representation of Hermes Trismegistus, the legendary alchemist and philosopher who has been associated with various spiritual traditions. Known as Mercurius ter Maximus in Latin, Hermes Trismegistus is often equated with the Egyptian god Thoth, the Greek Hermes, and the Roman Mercury. Some even speculate a connection between him and the biblical Moses.
Hermes Trismegistus and the Mystical Teachings
Hermes Trismegistus is a central figure in Hermeticism, a philosophical and esoteric tradition that has influenced alchemy, astrology, and the occult. His writings, particularly the Corpus Hermeticum, explore the nature of the divine, the cosmos, and human enlightenment. One passage from The Perfect Discourse reveals his mystical teachings:
“In The Perfect Discourse, Hermes Trismegistus tells Asclepius that God has no name—or rather, He has all names, for He is both the One and the Whole. He is eternally both male and female, generating all things according to His divine intention.”
This duality, as explored in Doina Ruști’s Dictionary of Dominant Symbols in Mircea Eliade’s Work, speaks to the interconnectedness of all existence. The fresco in San Simeone Piccolo’s crypt may thus symbolize the pursuit of hidden knowledge, merging spiritual and alchemical traditions in an enigmatic visual narrative.
A Journey Beneath Venice
For those willing to descend into its depths, the crypt of San Simeone Piccolo offers an extraordinary experience—one that juxtaposes religious devotion with esoteric symbolism. In a city where history often floats above the water, this subterranean world serves as a rare glimpse into Venice’s hidden past. Whether drawn by curiosity, history, or a fascination with the arcane, visitors will find themselves immersed in an atmosphere that is both chilling and thought-provoking.
As the light flickers against the frescoed walls, casting shadows over centuries-old tombs, one cannot help but ponder the mysteries of life, death, and the secret knowledge that may still lie buried beneath the streets of Venice.
Photos & text: Alex Iacob